'History House' Antique Patterns by the Fashion Archaeologist
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​Photo Tutorials keyed to
​'History House' sewing patterns

Pattern #1912-A-029 (Section 3, Shoulder Insets and Contrast Bands)

13/8/2019

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Section 3:  This Section shows the steps in constructing and applying the decorative lace shoulder insets and contrasting satin bands on this gown. 

​Click on "Play" (top left of 1st photo) to run slideshow; pause at any time.  Click on a thumbnail to view an individual photo.  Hover right or left on the slideshow string to fast forward or reverse.

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Pattern #1912-A-029 (Section 2, Constructing Bodice Front Opening Edges)

13/8/2019

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Section 2:  This section shows the steps in constructing the right-hand and left opening edges of the Bodice.   Note that in some photos, the "summer" version of the gown (in lightweight cream coloured silk crêpe shantung), in other pictures the "winter" version, in lightweight merlot-coloured  wool. 

Click on "Play" (top left of 1st photo) to run slideshow; pause at any time.  Click on a thumbnail to view an individual photo.  Hover right or left on the slideshow string to fast forward or reverse. ​ 

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Pattern # 1912-A-029  (Section 1, Constructing Skirt Front Opening)

13/8/2019

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#1912-A-029, Ladies' Fancy Afternoon Gown with Contrast Bands

​Section 1:  
Showing the steps in constructing the double (hidden) placket and facing in the gown front. 

Click on "Play" (top left of 1st photo) to run slideshow; pause at any time.  Click on a thumbnail to view an individual photo.  Hover right or left on the slideshow string to fast forward or reverse. ​ 

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Pattern #1912-A-003 (Section 3, Photos of Completed Blouse)

13/8/2019

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Section 3:  This section contains reference photos of finished blouses made from this pattern, as a guide to how the completed garment should look.

Click on "Play" (top left of 1st photo) to run slideshow; pause at any time.  Click on a thumbnail to view an individual photo.  Hover right or left on the slideshow string to fast forward or reverse. ​ 

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Pattern #1912-A-003  (Section 2, Constructing the Underarm/Side/Sleeve Seam)

13/8/2019

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Section 2:  This section sets out the steps in preparing, sewing and finishing the unique all-in-one seam in this blouse which closes the underarm, side seam and sleeve seam in one operation.  

Although this procedure may seem odd, or even bizarre and difficult, it is actually quite straightforward and makes sense if you follow the instructions step by step and sew carefully and slowly.  This particular design feature first appeared in French garment patterns around 1909, but by 1912 was used almost exclusively for blouses and bodices that were cut all in one piece, and without a shoulder or armscye seam (a modified "kimono" cut). 

The obvious advantages to this clever innovation were that it drastically reduced the bulky, inelegant fit of kimono blouses under the arms, followed the line of the body more closely, and placed the side seam toward the back, slightly out of view.  It was a brilliant and masterful solution to a common problem.  Unfortunately, this technique could never lend itself to automated factory production or simple home-sewing (the original patterns were intended mainly for dressmakers), and so it disappeared by the mid-1910's. 

Please note:  Many of the photos in this section were taken from Blouse #1911-A-017, but the procedure is exactly the same for this pattern #1912-A-003.

Click on "Play" (top left of 1st photo) to run slideshow; pause at any time.  Click on a thumbnail to view an individual photo.  Hover right or left on the slideshow string to fast forward or reverse. 

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Pattern #1912-A-003  (Section 1, Pre-tucking the Fabric)

13/8/2019

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#1912-A-003  Ladies' Fancy Batiste Blouse
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This album has 3 Sections -- Section 1 shows how to pre-tuck the fabric in the traditional Edwardian manner; Section 2 deals with the unique slashed, fitted dart technique for closing the sleeve, underarm and bodice side seam all in one process; and Section 3 shows sample photos of the completed blouse. 

Most fancy Edwardian/early 1910's blouses that were cut in one piece like this pattern, with fine tucks as a design feature, were pre-tucked on the flat yardage prior to the pattern pieces being cut out.  This Section 1 shows the steps in preparing the pre-tucking for this particular blouse.  Although tucking arrangements differed on different blouses, you can apply this same technique, with any necessary adjustments for the tucking arrangement, to any Edwardian cut-in-one blouse design.  

Click on "Play" (top left of 1st photo) to run slideshow; pause at any time.  Click on a thumbnail to view an individual photo.  Hover right or left on the slideshow string to fast forward or reverse. 
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Pattern #1911-A-015  (1 Section)

13/8/2019

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#1911-A-015  Ladies' Fancy Blouse with Contrast & Embroidery
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This photo tutorial shows the steps in constructing the traditional high boned Edwardian collar for this pattern.  Although making the collar requires some careful sewing, once you've mastered the process, you can apply it to any other Edwardian gown or blouse that calls for a high boned collar. 

For a detailed, step-by-step photo tutorial on constructing the unique all-in-one underarm/side/sleeve seam for this blouse, see Pattern #1912-A-003 on the Pattern List at right, Section 2.  

Click on "Play" (top left of 1st photo) to run slideshow; pause at any time.  Click on a thumbnail to view an individual photo.  Hover right or left on the slideshow string to fast forward or reverse. 
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Pattern #1909-A-003  (Section 7, Photos of Completed Gown)

12/8/2019

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Section 7:  
These are reference photos of the completed gown, in two versions, one in a taupe-coloured silk charmeuse (made in size Large from the pattern), and the other in purple satin (in size Medium).  

Click on "Play" (top left, 1st photo) to run the slideshow; click pause at any time.  Click a thumbnail to view an individual photo.  Hover left or right to fast forward or reverse through the thumbnails.

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Pattern #1909-A-003  (Section 6, Back Closures & Interior of Gown)

12/8/2019

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Section 6:  This contains photos mainly for reference purposes, showing the arrangement of the various back closures and inside construction of this gown.   

Click on "Play" (top left, 1st photo) to run the slideshow; click pause at any time.  Click a thumbnail to view an individual photo.  Hover left or right to fast forward or reverse through the thumbnails. 

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Pattern #1909-A-003  (Section 5, Making the Overbodice)

12/8/2019

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Section 5:  This section shows the steps in constructing the lace over-bodice for this gown, how to mount it onto the bodice, and complete the trimmings. 

Click on "Play" (top left, 1st photo) to run slideshow; click on pause at any time.  Click on a thumbnail to view an individual photo.  Hover over the thumbnail string to advance or rewind.

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    Overview

    This section contains "help photos" keyed to selected 'History House' sewing patterns, to assist customers with aspects of historical construction. 
    ​Please be sure to read "001-An Introduction" for details (see under 'Pattern List' below). 

    Archives

    June 2024
    February 2022
    August 2019

    Pattern List

    All
    001-An Introduction
    1909 A 003 (7 Sections)
    1909 A 005 (5 Sections)
    1910 A 015 (8 Sections)
    1911 A 015 (1 Section)
    1911 A 017 (2 Sections)
    1911 A 052 (2 Sections)
    1912 A 003 (3 Sections)
    1912 A 028 (3 Sections)
    1912 A 029 (5 Sections)
    1912 A 040 (1 Section)
    1912 C 003 (1 Section)

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